The Compleat Cook · Chapter 2The Compleat Cook: (2)
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To make a green Pudding.
Take a penny loafe of stale Bread, grate it, put to halfe a pound of Sugar, grated Nutmeg, as much Salt as will season it, three quarters of a pound of beef-suet shred very small, then take sweet Herbs, the most of them Marigolds, eight Spinages: shred the Herbs very small, mix all well together, then take two Eggs and work them up together with your hand, and make them into round balls, and when the water boyles put them in, serve them with Rose-water, Sugar, and Butter or Sauce.
To make good Sausages.
Take the lean of a Legge of Pork, and four pound of Beefe-suet, or rather butter, shred them together very small, then season it with three quarters of an ounce of Pepper, and halfe an ounce of Cloves and Mace mixed together, as the Pepper is, a handfull of Sage when it is chopt small, and as much salt as you thinke will make them tast well of it; mingle all these with the meat, then break in ten Eggs, all but two or three of the whites, then temper it all well with your hands, and fill it into Hoggs gutts, which you must have ready for them; you must tye the ends of them like Puddings, and when you eat them you must boyle them on a soft fire; a hot will crack the skins, and the goodnesse boyle out of them.
To make Toasts.
Cut two penny Loaves in round slices and dip them in half a pint of Cream or cold water, then lay them abroad in a Dish, and beat three Eggs and grated Nutmegs, and Sugar, beat them with the Cream, then take your frying Pan and melt some butter in it, and wet one side of your Toasts and lay them in on the wet side, then pour in the rest upon them, and so fry them; send them in with Rosewater, butter and sugar.
Spanish Cream.
Put hot water in a bucket and go with it to the Milking, then poure out the Water, and instantly milke into it, and presently strain it into milk-Pans of an ordinary fulnesse, but not after an ordinary way for you must set your Pan on the ground and stand on a stool, and pour it forth that it may rise in bubbles with the fall; this on the morrow will be a very tough Cream, which you must take off with your Skimmer, and lay it in the Dish, laying upon laying; and if you please strew some sugar between them.
To make Clouted Cream.
Take foure quarts of Milke, one of Cream, six spoonfuls of Rose-water, put these together in a great Earthen Milke-Pan, & set it upon a fire of Charcoale well kindled, you must be sure the fire be not too hot; then let it stand a day and a night; and when you go to take it off, loose the edge of your Cream around about with a Knife, then take your board, and lay the edges that is left beside the board, cut into many pieces, and put them into the Dish first, and scrape some fine Sugar upon them, then take your board and take off your Cream as clean from the Milk as you can, and lay it upon your Dish, and if your Dish be little, there will be some left, the which you may put into what fashion you please, and scrape good store of Sugar upon it.
A good Cream
When you Churn Butter, take out six spoonfuls of Cream, just as it is to turne to Butter, that is, when it is a little frothy; then boyle good Cream as must as will make a Dish, and season it with Sugar, and a little Rose-water; when it is quite cold enough, mingle it very well with that you take out of the Churn, and so Dish it.
To make Piramidis Cream.
Take a quart of water, and six ounces of harts horn, and put it into a Bottle with Gum-dragon, and Gum-arabick, of each as much as a small Nut, put all this into the Bottle, which must be so big as will hold a pint more; for if it be full it will break; stop it very Close with a Cork, and tye a Cloth about it, put the Bottle into a pot of beef when it is boyling, and let it boyle three hours, then take as much Cream as there is Jelly, and halfe a pound of Almonds well beaten with Rose-water, so that you cannot discern what they be, mingle the Cream and the Almonds together, then strain it, and do so two or three times to get all you can out of the Almonds, then put jelly when it is cold into a silver Bason, and the Cream to it; sweeten it as you like, put in two or three grains of Musk and Amber-greece, set it over the fire, stirring it continually and skimming it, till it be seething hot, but let it not boyle, then put it into an old fashion drinking-Glasse, and let it stand till it is cold, and when you will use it, hold your Glass in a warm hand, and loosen it with a Knife, and whelm it into a Dish, and have in readinesse Pine Apple blown, and stick it all over, and serve it in with Cream or without as you please.
To make a Sack Cream.
Set a quart of Cream on the fire, when it is boyled, drop in a spoonfull of sack, and stir it well the while, that it curd not, so do till you have dropped in six spoonfuls, then season it with sugar, Nutmeg, and strong water.
To boyle Pigeons.
Stuffe the Pigeons with Parsley, and butter, and put them into an Earthen Pot, and put some sweet butter to them and let them boyle; take Parsley, Tyme, and Rosemary, chop them and put them to them; take some sweet butter, and put in withall some spinage, take a little gross Pepper and Salt, and season it withall, then take the yolk of an Egge and strain it with Verjuyce, and put to them, lay sippets in the Dish and serve it.
To make an Apple-Tansey.
Pare your Apples and cut them in thin round slices, then fry them in good sweet Butter, then take ten Eggs, sweet Cream, Nutmeg, Cinamon, Ginger, Sugar, with a little Rose-water, beat all these together, and poure it upon your Apples and fry it.
The French-Barly-Cream.
Take a quart of Cream, and boyle in a Porrenger of French-Barley, that hath been boyled in a nine waters, put in some large Mace and a little Cinamon, boyling it a quarter of an hour; then take two quarts of Almonds blanched, and beat it very small with Rose-water, or Orange-water, and some Sugar; and the Almonds being strained into the Liquor, put it over the fire, stirring it till it be ready to boyle; then take it off the fire, stirring it till it be halfe cold; then put to it two spoonfuls of Sack or White-Wine, and when it is cold, serve it in, remembring to put in some Salt.
To make a Chicken or Pigeon-Pye.
Take your Pigeons (if they be not very young) cut them into four quarters, one sweet-bread sliced the long way, that it may be thin, and the pieces not too big, one Sheeps tongue, little more then parboyl'd, and the skin puld off, and the tongue cut in slices, two or three slices of Veale, as much of Mutton, young chicken (if not little) quarter them, Chick-heads, Lark, or any such like, Pullets, Coxcombs, Oysters, Calves-Udder cut in pieces, good store of Marrow for seasoning, take as much Pepper and Salt as you think fit to season it slightly; good store of sweet Marjoram, a little Time and Lemon-Pill fine sliced; season it well with these Spices as the time of the year will afford; put in either of Chesnuts (if you put in Chesnuts they must first be either boyl'd or roasted) Gooseberries or Guage, large Mace will do well in this Pye, then take a little piece of Veale parboyl'd and slice it very fine, as much Marrow as meat stirred amongst it, then take grated Bread, as much as a quarter of the meat, four yolks of Eggs or more according to the stuffe you make, shred Dates as small as may be, season it with salt, but not too salt. Nutmeg as much as will season it, sweet Marjoram pretty store very small shred, work it up with as much sweet Creame as will make it up in little Puddings, some long, some round, so put as many of them in the Pye as you please; put therein two or three spoonfulls of Gravy of Mutton, or so much strong Mutton broth before you put it in the Oven, the bottome of boyled Artichokes, minced Marrow over and in the bottom of the Pye after your Pye is baked; when you put it up, have some five yolks of Eggs minced, and the juyce of two or three Oranges, the meat of one Lemon cut in pieces, a little White and Claret Wine; put this in your Pye being well mingled, and shake it very well together.
To boyle a Capon or Hen.
Take a young Capon or Hen, when you draw them, take out the fall of the Leafe clean away, and being well washed, fill the belly with Oysters; prepare some Mutton, the neck, but boyle it in smal peices and skim it well, then put your Capon into the Pipkin, and when it is boyled, skim it again; be sure you have no more water then will cover your meat, then put it into a pint of white wine, some Mace, two or three Cloves and whole Pepper; a quarter of an hour before your meat be boyled enough, put into the Pipkin, three Anchoves stript from the Bones and washed, and be sure you put Salt at the first to your meat; a little Parsley Spinage, Endive, Sorrell, Rose-mary, or such kind of Herbs will do well to boyle with the Broth, and being ready to Dish it, having sippets cut then take the Oysters out of the Capon, and lay them in the Dish with the Broth, and put some juyce of Lemons and Orange into it according to your taste.
To make Balls of Veale.
Take the Lean of a Leg of Veal, and cut out the Sinews, mince it very small, and with it some fat of Beef suet; if the Leg of Veal be of a Cow Calfe, the Udder will be good instead of Beef suet; when it is very well beaten together with the mincing Knife, have some Cloves, Mace, and Pepper beaten, and with Salt season your meat, putting in some Vinegar, then make up your meat into little Balls, and having very good strong Broth made of Mutton, set your Balls to boyle in it; when they are boyled enough, take the yolks of five or six Eggs well beaten with as much Vinegar as you please to like, and some of the Broth mingled together, stir it into all your Balls and Broth, give it a waume on the fire, then Dish up the Balls upon Sippits and pour the sauce on it.
To make Mrs. Shellyes Cake.
Take a peck of fine flower, and three pound of the best Butter, work your flower and butter very well together, then take ten Eggs, leave out six whites, a pint and a halfe of Ale-yeast: beat the Eggs and yeast together, and put them to the flower; take six pound of blanched Almonds, beat them very well, putting in sometime Rosewater to keepe them from Oyling; adde what spice you please; let this be put to the rest, with a quarter of a pint of Sack, and a little saffron; and when you have made all this into Past, cover it warme before the fire, and let it rise for halfe an hour, then put in twelve pound of Currans well washed and dryed, two pound of Raisins of the Sun stoned and cut small, one pound of Sugar; the sooner you put it into the Oven after the fruit is put in, the better.
To make Almond Jumballs.
Take a pound of Almonds to halfe a pound of double refined Sugar beaten and Searced, lay your Almonds in water a day before you blanch them, and beat them small with your Sugar; and when it is beat very small, put in a handfull of Gum-dragon, it being before over night steeped in Rose-water, and halfe a white of an Egge beaten to froth, and halfe a spoonfull of Coriander-seed as many Fennell and Ani-seeds, mingle these together very well, set them upon a soft fire till it grow pretty thick, then take it off the fire, and lay it upon a clean Paper, and beat it well with a rowling pin till it work like a soft past, and so make them up, and lay them upon Papers oyld with Oyle of Almonds, then put them in your Oven, and so soon as they be throughly risen, take them out before they grow hard.
To make Cracknels.
Take halfe a pound of fine flower, dryed and searced, as much fine sugar searced, mingled with a spoonfull of Coriander-seed bruised, halfe a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed in the flower and sugar, then wet it with the yolks of two Eggs, and halfe a spoonfull of white Rose-water, a spoonfull or little more of Cream as will wet it; knead the Past till it be soft and limber to rowle well, then rowle it extreame thin, and cut them round by little plates; lay them up on buttered papers, and when they goe into the Oven, prick them, and wash the Top with the yolk of an Egg beaten, and made thin with Rose-water or faire water; they will give with keeping, therefore before they are eaten, they must be dryed in a warme Oven to make them crisp.
To Pickle Oysters.
Take Oysters and wash them cleane in their own Liquor, and let them settle, then strain it, and put your Oysters to it with a little Mace and whole pepper, as much Salt as you please, and a little Wine-Vinegar, then set them over the fire, and let them boyle leisurely till they are pretty tender; be sure to skim them still as the skim riseth; when they are enough, take them out till the Pickle be cold, then put them into any pot that will lye close, they will keep best in Caper barrels, they will keep very well six weeks.
To boyle Cream with Codlings.
Take a quart of Cream and boyle it with some Mace and Sugar, and take two yolks of Eggs, and beat them well with a spoonfull of Rose-water and a grain of Amber-greece, then put it into the Cream with a piece of sweet Butter as big as a Wall-nut, and stir it together over the fire untill it be ready to boyle, then set it some time to coole, stirring it continually till it be cold; then take a quarter of a pound of Codlings strained, and put them into a silver Dish over a few coales till they be almost dry, and being cold, and the Cream also, poure the Cream upon them, and let them stand on a soft fire covered an hour, then serve them in.
To make the Lady Albergaveres Cheese.
To one Cheese take a Gallon of new Milk, and a pint of good Cream, and mix them well together, then take a Skillet of hot water as much as will make it hotter then it comes from the Cow, then put in a spoonfull of Rennet, and stir it well together and cover it, and when it is come, take a wet Cloth and lay it on your Cheese-Mot, and take up the Curd and not break it; and put it into your Mot; and when your Mot is full, lay on the Suiker, and every two hours turn your Cheese in wet Cloathes wrung dry; and lay on a little more wet, at night take as much salt as you can between your finger and thumb, and salt your Cheese on both sides; let them lye in Presses all night in a wet Cloth; the next day lay them on a Table between a dry Cloth, the next day lay them in Grasse, and every other day change your Grasse, they will be ready to eat in nine dayes; if you will have them ready sooner, cover them with a Blanket.
To dresse Snayles.
Take your Snayles (they are no way so as in Pottage) and wash them well in many waters, and when you have done put them in a white Earthen Pan, or a very wide Dish, and put as much water to them as will cover them, and then set your Dish or Pan on some coales, that it may heat by little and little, and then the Snayles will come out of the shells and so dye, and being dead, take them out, and wash them very well in Water and salt twice or thrice over; then put them in a Pipkin with Water and Salt, and let them boyle a little while in that, so take away the rude slime they have, then take them out againe and put them in a Cullender; then take excellent sallet Oyle and beat it a great while upon the fire in a frying Pan, and when it boyls very fast, slice two or three Onyons in it, and let them fry well, then put the Snayles in the Oyle and Onyons, and let them stew together a little, then put the Oyle, Onyons, and Snayles altogether in an earthen Pipkin of a fit size for your Snayles, and put as much warm water to them as will serve to boyle them, and make the Pottage and season them with Salt, and so let them boyle three or foure hours; then mingle Parsly, Pennyroyall, Fennell, Tyme, and such Herbs, and when they are minced put them in a Morter, and beat them as you doe for Green-sauce, and put in some crums of bread soaked in the Pottage of the Snayles, and then dissolve it all in the Morter with a little Saffron and Cloves well beaten, and put in as much Pottage into the Morter as will make the Spice and bread and Herbs like thickning for a pot, so put them all into the Snayles and let them stew in it, and when you serve them up, you may squeeze into the pottage a Lemon, and put in a little Vinegar, or if you put in a Clove of Garlick among the Herbs, and beat it with them in the Morter; it will not tast the worse; serve them up in a Dish with sippets of Bread in the bottom. The Pottage is very nourishing, and they use them that are apt to a Consumption.
To boyle a rump of Beefe after the French fashion.
Take a rump of Beef, or the little end of the Brisket, and parboyle it halfe an houre, then take it up and put it in a deep Dish, then slash it in the side that the gravy may come out, then throw a little Pepper and salt betweene every cut, then fill up the Dish with the best Claret wine, and put to it three or foure pieces of large Mace, and set it on the coales close covered, and boyle it above an houre and a halfe, but turn it often in the mean time; then with a spoon take of the fat and fill it with Claret wine, and slice six Onyons, and a handfull of Cappers or broom buds, halfe a dozen of hard Lettice sliced, three spoonfuls of wine-Vinegar and as much verjuyce, and then set it a boyling with these things in it till it be tender, and serve it up with brown Bread and Sippets fryed with butter, but be sure there be not too much fat in it when you serve it.
An excellent way of dressing Fish.
Take a piece of fresh Salmon, and wash it clean in a little Vinegar and Water, and let it lye a while in it, in a great Pipkin with a cover, and put to it six spoonfuls of Water and four of Vinegar, as much of white wine, a good deale of Salt, a bundle of sweet Herbs, a little whole Spice, a few Cloves, a little stick of Cinamon, a little Mace, take up all these in a Pipkin close, and set in a Kettle of seething Water and there let it stew three hours, You may doe Carps, Eeles, Trouts, &c. this way, alter the tast to your mind.
To make Fritters of Sheeps-feet.
Take your Sheeps feet, slit them and set them a stewing in a silver Dish, with a little strong Broth and Salt, with a stick of Cinamon, two or three Cloves, and a piece of an Orange Pill; when they are stewed, take them from the liquor and lay them upon a Pye-plate cooling; when they are cold, have some good Fritter-batter made with Sack, and dip them therein; then have ready to fry them, some excellent clarified Butter very hot in a Pan, and fry them therein; when they are fryed wring in the juyce of three or four Oranges, and toss them once or twice in a Dish, and so serve them to the Table.
To make dry Salmon Calvert in the boyling.
Take a Gallon of Water, put to it a quart of Wine or Vinegar, Verjuyce or sour Beer, and a few sweet herbs and Salt, and let your Liquor boyle extream fast, and hold your Salmon by the Tayle, and dip it in, and let it have a walme, and so dip it in and out a dozen times, and that will make your Salmon Calvert, and so boyle it till it be tender.
To make Bisket Bread.
Take a pound of Sugar searced very fine, and a pound of flower well dryed, and twelve Eggs, a handfull of Carroway-seed, six whites of Eggs, a very little Salt, beat all these together, and keep them with beating till you set them in the Oven, then put them into your Plates or Tin things, and take Butter and put into a Cloth and rub your Plate; a spoonfull into a Plate is enough, and so set them in the Oven, and let your Oven be no hotter then to bake small Pyes; if your flower be not dryed in the Oven before, they will be heavy.
To make an Almond Pudding.
Take your Almonds when they are blanched, and beat them as many as will serve for your Dish, then put to it foure or five yolks of Eggs, Rose-water, Nutmeg, Cloves and Mace, a little Sugar, and a little salt and Marrow cut into it, and so set it into the Oven, but your Oven must not be hotter then for Bisket bread; and when it is half baked, take the white of an Egg, Rose-water and fine Sugar well beaten together and very thick, and do it over with a feather, and set it in againe, then stick it over with Almonds, and so send it up.
This you may boyle in a Bag if you please, and put in a few crums of Bread into it, and eat it with butter and Sugar without Marrow.
To make an Almond Caudle.
Take three pints of Ale, boyle it with Cloves and Mace, and sliced bread in it, then have ready beaten a pound of Almonds blanched, & strain them out with a pint of White wine, and thicken the Ale with it, sweeten it if you please, and be sure you skim the Ale well when it boyles.
To make Almond bread.
Take Almonds and lay them in water all night, then blanch them and slice them, to every pound of Almonds, a pound of fine Sugar finely beaten, so mingle them together, then beat the whites of three Egs to high froth, and mix it well with the Almonds & Sugar, then have some Plates and strew some flower on them, and lay Wafers on them, and lay your Almonds with the edges upwards, lay them as round as your can, scrape a little Sugar on them, when they are ready to set in the Oven, which must not be so hot as to colour white Paper, and when they are a little baked, take them out, and them from the Plates, and set them in again, you must keepe them in a Stove.
To make Almond Cakes.
Take halfe a pound of Almonds blanched in cold water, beat them with some Rose-water till they doe not glister, then they will be beaten; if you think fit, lay seven or eight Musque Comfits dissolved in Rosewater which must not be above six or seven spoonfuls for fear of spoyling the colour; when they be thus beaten, put in half a pound of Sugar finely sifted, beat them and the Almonds together till it be well mixed, then take the whites of two Eggs, and two spoonfuls of fine flower that hath been dried in an Oven; beat these wel together and poure it to your Almonds, then butter your Plates and dust your Cakes with Sugar and Flower, and when they are a little brown, draw them, and when the oven is colder set them in again on browne Papers, and they will looke whiter.
Master Rudstones Posset.
Take a Pint of Sack, a quarter of a pint of Ale three quarters of a pound of Sugar, boyle all these well together, take two yolks of Eggs and sixteen whites very well beaten, put this to your boyling Sack & slice it very well together till it be thick on the coales; then take the three pints of Milk or Cream being boyled to a quart, it must stand and cool till the Eggs thicken, put it to your Sack and Eggs, and stir them well together, then cover it with a Plate and so serve it.
To boyle a Capon with Ranioles.
Take a good young Capon, trusse it and draw it to boyle, and parboyle it a little, then let it lye in fair Water being pickt very cleane and white, then boyle it in strong broth while it be enough, but first prepare your Ranioles as followeth; Take a good quantity of Beet leaves, and boyle them in Water very tender, then take them out, and get all the water very cleane out of them, then take six sweet breads of Veale, and boyle and mince them white, mince them small, and then boyl Herbs also, and four or five Marrow bones, break them and get all the Marrow out of them, and boyle the bigger peice of them in water by it selfe, and put the other into the minced Herbs, then take halfe a pound of Raisins of the Sun stoned, and mince them small, and halfe a pound of Dates the skin off, and mince them also, and a quarter of a pound of Pomecitron minced small, then take of Naples-bisket a good quantity, and put all these together on a Charger or a great Dish with halfe a pound of sweet Butter, and worke it together with your hands as you do a peice of Past, and season it with a little Nutmeg, Ginger, Cinamon, and Salt, & Permasan Cheese grated with hard Sugar grated also, then mingle all together well, and make a Past with the finest flower, six yolks of Eggs, a little Saffron beaten small, halfe a pound of sweet Butter, a little Salt, with some faire water hot (not boyling) and make up your Past, then drive out a long sheet of Past with an even Rowling Pin as thin as possible you can, and lay your ingredients in small heaps, round or long which you please in the Past, then cover them with the Past & cut them with a jag asunder and so make more or more till you have made two hundred or more, then have a good broad Pan or Kettle halfe full of strong Broth, boyling leisurely, and put in your Ransoles one by one, and let them boyle a quarter of an hour, then take up your Capon, lay it in a great Dish, and put one the Ransoles, & strew on them grated Cheese, Naples-Bisket grated, Cinamon and Sugar, then more and more Cinamon & Cheese, while you have filled your Dish; then put softly on melted Butter with a little strong Broth, your Marrow Pomecitron, Lemons sliced and serve it up, and so put it into the Dish so Ransoles may be part fryed with sweet but Clarified butter, either a quarter of them or halfe as you please; if the butter be not Clarified, it will spoile your Ransoles.
To make a Bisque of Carps.
Take twelve small Carps, and one great one, all Male Carps, draw them and take out all the Melts, flea the twelve small Carps, cut off their Heads and take out their Tongues and take the fish from the bones of the flead Carps, and twelve Oysters, two or three yelks of Hard eggs, mash altogether, season it with Cloves, Mace and Salt, and make thereof a stiffe searce, add thereto the yolks of foure or five Eggs to bind it, fashion that first into bals or Lopings as you please, lay them into a deep Dish or Earthen Pan, and put thereto twenty or thirty great Oysters, two or three Anchoves, the Milts and Tongues of your twelve Carps, halfe a pound of fresh butter, the Liquor of your Oysters, the juyce of a Lemon or two; a little White-wine some of Corbilion wherein your great Carpe is boyled, and a whole Onyon, so set them a stewing on a soft fire and make a hoop therewith; for the great Carp you must scald him and draw him, and lay him for half an hour with the other Carps Heads in a deep Pan with so much White wine Vinegar as will cover and serve to boyle him, and the other Heads in; put therein Pepper, whole Mace, a race of Ginger, Nutmeg, Salt sweet Herbs, an Onyon or two sliced, a Lemon; when you boyle your Carps, poure your Liquor with the Spice into the Kettle wherein you will boyle him; when it is boyled put in your Carp, let it not boyle too fast for breaking; after the Carp hath boyled a while put in the Head, when it is enough take off the Kettle, and let the Carps and the Heads keep warme in the Liquor till you goe to dish them. When you dresse your Bisque, take a large Silver dish, set it on the fire, lay therein Sippets of bread, then put in a Ladle-full of your Corbilion, then take up your great Carp and lay him in the midst of the Dish, then range the twelve heads about the Carp, then lay the searce of the Carp, lay that in, then your Oysters, Milts, and Tongues, then poure on the Liquor wherein the searce was boyled, wring in the juyce of a Lemon and two Oranges; Garnish your Dish with pickled Barberries, Lemons and Oranges, and serve it very hot to the Table.