Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I · Chapter 1Opening
This chapter is not translated yet. You are reading the original.
1913
Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer, able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors, and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man living could be found who was so well fitted to command a great Antarctic Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented. The object was to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by land. Captain Scott entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm tempered by prudence and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a thorough study of the history of Arctic travelling, combined with experience of different conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott was the initiator and founder of Antarctic sledge travelling.
His discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings along the barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the examination of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria Mountains—a range of great height and many hundreds of miles in length, which had only before been seen from a distance out at sea—and above all the discovery of the great ice cap on which the South Pole is situated, by one of the most remarkable polar journeys on record. His small but excellent scientific staff worked hard and with trained intelligence, their results being recorded in twelve large quarto volumes.
The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic work. The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command of battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labours.
The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly scientific, to complete and extend his former work in all branches of science. It was his ambition that in his ship there should be the most completely equipped expedition for scientific purposes connected with the polar regions, both as regards men and material, that ever left these shores. In this he succeeded. He had on board a fuller complement of geologists, one of them especially trained for the study of physiography, biologists, physicists, and surveyors than ever before composed the staff of a polar expedition. Thus Captain Scott's objects were strictly scientific, including the completion and extension of his former discoveries. The results will be explained in the second volume of this work. They will be found to be extensive and important. Never before, in the polar regions, have meteorological, magnetic and tidal observations been taken, in one locality, during five years. It was also part of Captain Scott's plan to reach the South Pole by a long and most arduous journey, but here again his intention was, if possible, to achieve scientific results on the way, especially hoping to discover fossils which would throw light on the former history of the great range of mountains which he had made known to science.
The principal aim of this great man, for he rightly has his niche among the polar Dii Majores, was the advancement of knowledge. From all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable men of our time, and the vast number of readers of his journal will be deeply impressed with the beauty of his character. The chief traits which shone forth through his life were conspicuous in the hour of death. There are few events in history to be compared, for grandeur and pathos, with the last closing scene in that silent wilderness of snow. The great leader, with the bodies of his dearest friends beside him, wrote and wrote until the pencil dropped from his dying grasp. There was no thought of himself, only the earnest desire to give comfort and consolation to others in their sorrow. His very last lines were written lest he who induced him to enter upon Antarctic work should now feel regret for what he had done.
'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of him, and never regretted his putting me in command of the Discovery.'
Sept. 1913.
Contents of the First Volume
General Stowage—A Last Scene in New Zealand—Departure—On Deck with the Dogs—The Storm—The Engine-room Flooded—Clearing the Pumps—Cape Crozier as a Station—Birds of the South—A Pony's Memory—Tabular Bergs—An Incomparable Scene—Formation of the Pack—Movements of the Floes … 1
A Reported Island—Incessant Changes—The Imprisoning Ice—Ski-ing and Sledging on the Floes—Movement of Bergs—Opening of the Pack—A Damaged Rudder—To Stop or not to Stop—Nicknames—Ski Exercise—Penguins and Music—Composite Floes—Banked Fires—Christmas in the Ice—The Penguins and the Skua—Ice Movements—State of the Ice-house—Still in the Ice—Life in the Pack—Escape from the Pack—A Calm—The Pack far to the North—Science in the Ice … 20
Land at Last—Reach Cape Crozier—Cliffs of Cape Crozier—Landing Impossible—Penguins and Killers—Cape Evans as Winter Station—The Ponies Landed—Penguins' Fatuous Conduct—Adventure with Killer Whales—Habits of the Killer Whale—Landing Stores—The Skuas Nesting—Ponies and their Ways—Dangers of the Rotting Ice … 53
Loss of a Motor—A Dog Dies—Result of Six Days' Work—Restive Ponies—An Ice Cave—Loading Ballast—Pony Prospects—First Trip to Hut Point—Return: Prospects of Sea Ice—A Secure Berth—The Hut—Home Fittings and Autumn Plans—The Pianola—Seal Rissoles—The Ship Stranded—Ice begins to go. … 73
Dogs and Ponies at Work—Stores for Depots—Old Stores at Discovery Hut—To Encourage the Pony—Depôt Plans—Pony Snowshoes—Impressions on the March—Further Impressions—Sledging Necessities and Luxuries—A Better Surface—Chaos Without; Comfort Within—After the Blizzard—Marching Routine—The Weakest Ponies Return—Bowers and Cherry-Garrard—Snow Crusts and Blizzards—A Resented Frostbite—One Ton Camp. … 96
Dogs' and Ponies' Ways—The Dogs in a Crevasse—Rescue Work—Chances of a Snow Bridge—The Dog Rations—A Startling Mail—Cross the Other Party—The End of Weary Willy—The Ice Breaks—The Ponies on the Floe—Safely Back. … 122
Fitting up the Old Hut—A Possible Land Route—The Geological Party Arrives—Clothing—Exceptional Gales—Geology at Hut Point—An Ice Foot Exposed—Stabling at Hut Point—Waiting for the Ice—A Clear Day—Pancake Ice—Life at Hut Point—From Hut Point to Cape Evans—A Blizzard on the Sea Ice—Dates of the Sea Freezing. … 138
Baseless Fears about the Hut—The Death of 'Hackenschmidt'—The Dark Room—The Biologists' Cubicle—An Artificer Cook—A Satisfactory Organisation—Up an Ice Face—An Icy Run—On getting Hot … 158
Balloons—Occupations—Many Talents—The Young Ice goes out—Football: Inverted Temperatures—Of Rainbows—Football: New Ice—Individual Scientific Work—Individuals at Work—Thermometers on the Floe—Floe Temperatures—A Bacterium in the Snow—Return of the Hut Point Party—Personal Harmony … 171
On Penguins—The Electrical Instruments—On Horse Management—On Ice Problems—The Aurora—The Nimrod Hut—Continued Winds—Modern Interests—The Sense of Cold—On the Floes—A Tribute to Wilson … 190
Ventilation—On the Meteorological Instruments—Magnesium Flashlight—On the Beardmore Glacier—Lively Discussions—Action of Sea Water on Ice—A Theory of Blizzards—On Arctic Surveying—Ice Structure—Ocean Life—On Volcanoes—Daily Routine—On Motor Sledging—Crozier Party's Experiments—Midwinter Day Dinner—A Christmas Tree—An Ethereal Glory … 205
Threats of a Blizzard—Start of the Crozier Party—Strange Winds—A Current Vane—Pendulum Observations—Lost on the Floe—The Wanderer Returns—Pony Parasites—A Great Gale—The Ways of Storekeepers—A Sick Pony—A Sudden Recovery—Effects of Lack of Light—Winds of Hurricane Force—Unexpected Ice Conditions—Telephones at Work—The Cold on the Winter Journey—Shelterless in a Blizzard—A Most Gallant Story—Winter Clothing Nearly Perfect. 228
The Indomitable Bowers—A Theory of Blizzards—Ponies' Tricks—On Horse Management—The Two Esquimaux Dogs—Balloon Records—On Scurvy—From Tent Island—On India—Storms and Acclimatisation—On Physiography—Another Lost Dog Returns—The Debris Cones—On Chinese Adventures—Inverted Temperature. … 255
On Polar Clothing—Prospects of the Motor Sledges—South Polar Times, II—The Spring Western Journey—The Broken Glacier Tongue—Marching Against a Blizzard—The Value of Experience—General Activity—Final Instructions … 276
Clissold's Accident—Various Invalids—Christopher's Capers—A Motor Mishap—Dog Sickness—Some Personal Sketches—A Pony Accident—A Football Knee—Value of the Motors—The Balance of Heat and Cold—The First Motor on the Barrier—Last Days at Cape Evans. … 290
Midnight Lunches—A Motor Breaks Down—The Second Motor Fails—Curious Features of the Blizzard—Ponies Suffer in a Blizzard—Ponies go Well—A Head Wind—Bad Conditions Continue—At One Ton Camp—Winter Minimum Temperature—Daily Rest in the Sun—Steady Plodding—The First Pony Shot—A Trying March—The Second Pony Shot—Dogs, Ponies, and Driving—The Southern Mountains Appear—The Third Blizzard—A Fourth Blizzard—The Fifth and Long Blizzard—Patience and Resolution—Still Held Up—The End of the Barrier Journey. … 308
Difficulties with Deep Snow—With Full Loads—After-Effects of the Great Storm—A Fearful Struggle—Less Snow and Better Going—The Valley of the Beardmore—Wilson Snow Blind—The Upper Glacier Basin—Return of the First Party—Upper Glacier Depot. … 340
Pressures Under Mount Darwin—A Change for the Better—Running of a Sledge—Lost Time Made Up—Comfort of Double Tent—Last Supporting Party Returns—Hard Work on the Summit—Accident to Evans—The Members of the Party—Mishap to a Watch—A Chill in the Air—A Critical Time—Forestalled—At the Pole. … 354
A Hard Time on the Summit—First Signs of Weakening—Difficulty in Following Tracks—Getting Hungrier—Accidents Multiply—Accident to Scott—The Ice-fall—End of the Summit Journey—Happy Moments on Firm Land—In a Maze of Crevasses—Mid-Glacier Depôt Reached—A Sick Comrade—Death of P.O. Evans. … 377
Snow Like Desert Sand—A Gloomy Prospect—No Help from the Wind—The Grip of Cold—Three Blows of Misfortune—From Bad to Worse—A Sick Comrade—Oates' Case Hopeless—The Death of Oates—Scott Frostbitten—The Last Camp—Farewell Letters—The Last Message. … 396
Photogravure Plates
Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott, R.N., C.V.O. Frontispiece From a Painting by Harrington Mann
From Sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson
A Lead in the Pack 26 On the Way to the Pole 364 'Black Flag Camp'—Amundsen's Black Flag within a Few Miles of the South Pole 367 Amundsen's Tent at the South Pole 371 Cairn left by the Norwegians S.S.W. from Black Flag Camp and Amundsen's South Pole Mark 376 Mount Buckley, One of the Last of Many Pencil Sketches made on the Return Journey from the Pole 386
Coloured Plates
From Water-colour Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson
The Great Ice Barrier, looking east from Cape Crozier Facing p. 51 Hut Point, Midnight, March 27, 1911 138 A Sunset from Hut Point, April 2, 1911 150 Mount Erebus 169 Lunar Corona 176 Paraselene, June 15, 1911 178 'Birdie' Bowers reading the Thermometer on the Ramp, June 6, 1911 214 Iridescent Clouds. Looking North from Cape Evans 257 Exercising the Ponies 288 Mr. Ponting Lecturing on Japan 202
Panoramas
From Photographs by Herbert G. Ponting
The Western Mountains as seen from Captain Scott's Winter Quarters at Cape Evans Facing p. 126 Mount Terror and its Glaciers 126 The Royal Society Mountains of Victoria Land—Telephoto Study from Cape Evans 284 Mount Erebus and Glaciers to the Turk's Head 284
Full Page Plates
The Full Page Plates are from photographs by Herbert G. Ponting, except where otherwise stated
The Crew of the 'Terra Nova' Facing p. 2 Captain Oates and Ponies on the 'Terra Nova' 6 'Vaida' 8 'Krisravitsa' 8 'Stareek' Malingering 8 Manning the Pumps 10 The First Iceberg 10 Albatross Soaring 12 Albatrosses Foraging in the Wake of the 'Terra Nova' 12 Dr. Wilson and Dr. Atkinson loading the Harpoon Gun 14 A. B. Cheetham—the Boatswain of the 'Terra Nova' 14 Evening Scene in the Pack 17 Lieut. Evans in the Crow's Nest 20 Furling Sail in the Pack 20 A Berg breaking up in the Pack 23 Moonlight in the Pack 29 Christmas Eve (1910) in the Pack 36 'I don't care what becomes of Me' 44 An Adelie about to Dive 44 Open Water in the Ross Sea 46 In the Pack—a Lead opening up 48 Cape Crozier: the End of the Great Ice Barrier 54 Ice-Blink over the Barrier 56 The Barrier and Mount Terror 56 The Midnight Sun in McMurdo Sound 58 Entering McMurdo Sound—Cape Bird and Mount Erebus 60 Surf breaking against Stranded Ice at Cape Evans 60 The 'Terra Nova' in McMurdo Sound 62 Disembarking the Ponies 64 Ponies tethered out on the Sea Ice Facing p. 64 Lieut. H. E. de P. Rennick 66 Lieut. Rennick and a Friendly Penguin 66 The Arch Berg from Within 68 Something of a Phenomenon—A Fresh Water Cascade 71 The Arch Berg from Without 74 Ponting Cinematographs the Bow of the 'Terra Nova' Breaking through the Ice-floes 76 Landing a Motor-Sledge 76 Lieut. Evans and Nelson Cutting a Cave for Cold Storage 78 The Condition of Affairs a Week after Landing 78 Killer Whales Rising to Blow 82 Hut Point and Observation Hill 82 The Tenements 84 Plan of Hut Page 85 The Point of the Barne Glacier Facing p. 90 Winter Quarters at Cape Evans 94 Lillie and Dr. Levick Sorting a Trawl Catch 101 Seals Basking on Newly-formed Pancake Ice off Cape Evans 106 Lieut. Tryggve Gran 112 Captain Scott on Skis 118 Summer Time: the Ice opening up 133 Spray Ridges of Ice after a Blizzard 145 A Berg Drifting in McMurdo Sound 155 Pancake Ice Forming into Floes off Cape Evans 155 Ponting Developing a Plate in the Dark Room 160 The Falling of the Long Polar Night 164 Depot Laying and Western Parties on their Return to Cape Evans 166 A Blizzard Approaching across the Sea Ice 171 The Barne Glacier: a Crevasse with a Thin Snow Bridge 174 Dr. Wilson Working up the Sketch which is given at p. 178 180 Dr. Simpson at the Unifilar Magnetometer 182 Dr. Atkinson in his Laboratory 182 Winter Work 184 Dr. Atkinson and Clissold hauling up the Fish Trap 186 The Freezing up of the Sea 188 Whale-back Clouds over Mount Erebus 190 (Photo by F. Debenham) The Hut and the Western Mountains from the Top of the Ramp 194 Cape Royds, looking North 199 The Castle Berg Facing p. 205 Captain Scott's Last Birthday Dinner 210 Captain Scott in his 'Den' 218 Dr. Wilson and Lieut Bowers reading the Ramp Thermometer in the Winter Night, -40° Fahrenheit—a Flashlight Photograph 221 Finnesko 228 Ski-shoes for use with Finnesko 228 Finnesko fitted with the Ski-shoes 228 Finnesko with Crampons 228 Dr. Atkinson's Frostbitten Hand 232 Petty Officer Evans Binding up Dr. Atkinson's Hand 232 Pony takes Whisky 234 The Stables in Winter 234 Oates and Meares at the Blubber Stove in the Stables 238 Petty Officers Crean and Evans Exercising their Ponies in the Winter 240 Oates and Meares out Skiing in the Night 240 Remarkable Cirrus Clouds over the Barne Glacier 244 Lieut. Evans Observing an Occultation of Jupiter 247 Dr. Simpson in the Hut at the Other End of the Telephone Timing the Observation 247 'Birdie' (Lieut. H. R. Bowers) 252 The Summit of Mount Erebus 254 Capt. L. E. G. Oates by the Stable Door 260 Debenham, Gran, and Taylor in their Cubicle 264 Nelson and his Gear 264 Dr. Simpson sending up a Balloon 266 The Polar Party's Sledging Ration 266 An Ice Grotto—Tent Island in Distance 269 Dr. Wilson Watching the First Rays of Sunlight being Recorded after the long Winter Night 271 The Return of the Sun 271 C. H. Meares and 'Osman,' the Leader of the Dogs 274 Meares and Demetri at 'Discovery' Hut 277 The Main Party at Cape Evans after the Winter, 1911 280 The Castle Berg at the End of the Winter 282 Mount Erebus over a Water-worn Iceberg 290 On the Summit of an Iceberg 290 Dr. Wilson and Pony 'Nobby' 292 Cherry-Garrard giving his Pony 'Michael' a roll in the Snow 292 Surveying Party's Tent after a Blizzard Facing p 294 (Photo by Lieut T Gran) Dogs with Stores about to leave Hut Point 296 Dogs Galloping towards the Barrier 296 Meares and Demetri with their Dog-teams leaving Hut Point 296 Dr. Wilson 298 Preparing Sledges for Polar Journey 300 Day's Motor under Way 302 One of the Motor Sledges 302 Meares and Demetri at the Blubber Stove in the 'Discovery' Hut 305 The Motor Party 308 H. G. Ponting and one of his Cinematograph Cameras 311 Members of the Polar Party having a Meal in Camp 316 (Enlarged from a cinematograph film) Members of the Polar Party getting into their Sleeping-bags 322 (Enlarged from a cinematograph film) Ponies behind their Shelter in Camp on the Barrier 328 (Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott) Ponies on the March 334 (Photo by F. Debenham) Captain Scott wearing the Wallet in which he carried his Sledging Journals 338 Pressure on the Beardmore below the Cloudmaker Mountain 340 (Photo by C. S. Wright) Mount Kyffin 342 (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) Camp under the Wild Range 345 (Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott) Dr. Wilson Sketching on the Beardmore 348 (Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott) Some Members of the Supporting Parties as they appeared on their Return from the Polar Journey 350 Camp at Three Degree Depot 352 (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) Chief Stoker Lashly 355 Petty Officer Crean 355 Pitching the Double Tent on the Summit 358 (Photo by Lieut H R Bowers) The Polar Party on the Trail 360 (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) At the South Pole 374 (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) Amundsen's Tent at the South Pole Facing p. 380 (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) Sastrugi 382 The Cloudmaker Mountain 390 (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) Petty Officer Edgar Evans, R.N. 392 Facsimile of the Last Words of the Journal 403 Facsimile of Message to the Public 414
Map
British Antarctic Expedition, 1910-1913—Track Chart of Main Southern Journey At end of text
British Antarctic Expedition, 1910
Shore Parties
Officers
Name. Rank, &c. Robert Falcon Scott Captain, R.N., C.V.O. Edward R. G. R. Evans Commander, R.N. Victor L. A. Campbell Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List). Henry R. Bowers Lieutenant, R.N. Lawrence E. G. Oates Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons. G. Murray Levick Surgeon, R.N. Edward L. Atkinson Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist.
Scientific Staff
Edward Adrian Wilson M.A., M.B., Chief of the Scientific Staff, and Zoologist. George C. Simpson D.Sc., Meteorologist. T. Griffith Taylor B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist. Edward W. Nelson Biologist. Frank Debenham B.A., B.Sc., Geologist. Charles S. Wright B.A., Physicist. Raymond E. Priestley Geologist. Herbert G. Ponting F.R.G.S., Camera Artist. Cecil H. Meares In Charge of Dogs. Bernard C. Day Motor Engineer. Apsley Cherry-Garrard B.A., Asst. Zoologist. Tryggve Gran Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R., Ski Expert.
Men
W. Lashly Chief Stoker. W. W. Archer Chief Steward. Thomas Clissold Cook, late R.N. Edgar Evans Petty Officer, R.N. Robert Forde Petty Officer, R.N. Thomas Crean Petty Officer, R.N. Thomas S. Williamson Petty Officer, R.N. Patrick Keohane Petty Officer, R.N. George P. Abbott Petty Officer, R.N. Frank V. Browning Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N. Harry Dickason Able Seaman, R.N. F. J. Hooper Steward, late R.N. Anton Omelchenko Groom. Demetri Gerof Dog Driver.
Ship's Party
Officers, &c.
Harry L. L. Pennell Lieutenant, R.N. Henry E. de P. Rennick Lieutenant, R.N. Wilfred M. Bruce Lieutenant, R.N.R. Francis R. H. Drake Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired), Secretary & Meteorologist in Ship. Dennis G. Lillie M.A., Biologist in Ship. James R. Denniston In Charge of Mules in Ship. Alfred B. Cheetham R.N.R., Boatswain. William Williams, O.N. Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N., Engineer. William A. Horton, O.N. Eng. Rm. Art., 3rd Cl., R.N., 2nd Engr. Francis E. C. Davies, O.N. Shipwright, R.N., Carpenter. Frederick Parsons Petty Officer, R.N. William L. Heald Late P.O., R.N. Arthur S. Bailey Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N. Albert Balson Leading Seaman, R.N. Joseph Leese, O.N. Able Seaman, R.N. John Hugh Mather, O.N. Petty Officer, R.N.V.R. Robert Oliphant Able Seaman. Thomas F. McLeon ,, ,, Mortimer McCarthy ,, ,, William Knowles ,, ,, Charles Williams ,, ,, James Skelton ,, ,, William McDonald ,, ,, James Paton ,, ,, Robert Brissenden Leading Stoker, R.N. Edward A. McKenzie ,, ,, ,, William Burton Leading Stoker, R.N. Bernard J. Stone ,, ,, ,, Angus McDonald Fireman. Thomas McGillon ,, Charles Lammas ,, W. H. Neale Steward.
Barrier. The immense sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of still greater length, which lies south of Ross Island to the west of Victoria Land. Brash. Small ice fragments from a floe that is breaking up. Drift. Snow swept from the ground like dust and driven before the wind. Finnesko. Fur boots. Flense, flence. To cut the blubber from a skin or carcase. Frost smoke. A mist of water vapour above the open leads, condensed by the severe cold. Hoosh. A thick camp soup with a basis of pemmican. Ice-foot. Properly the low fringe of ice formed about Polar lands by the sea spray. More widely, the banks of ice of varying height which skirt many parts of the Antarctic shores. Piedmont. Coastwise stretches of the ancient ice sheet which once covered the Antarctic Continent, remaining either on the land, or wholly or partially afloat. Pram. A Norwegian skiff, with a spoon bow. Primus. A portable stove for cooking. Ramp. A great embankment of morainic material with ice beneath, once part of the glacier, on the lowest slopes of Erebus at the landward end of C. Evans. Saennegras. A kind of fine Norwegian hay, used as packing in the finnesko to keep the feet warm and to make the fur boot fit firmly. Sastrugus. An irregularity formed by the wind on a snowplain. 'Snow wave' is not completely descriptive, as the sastrugus has often a fantastic shape unlike the ordinary conception of a wave. Skua. A large gull. Working crack. An open crack which leaves the ice free to move with the movement of the water beneath.
That was the first chapter. Sign in and the reader keeps your place on every device, and learns what you know: what you looked up comes back, what you knew makes room for something new.