Reform Cookery Book (4th edition) · Chapter 4Part 4
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Rice and Cheese.
Half teacupful rice, 2 ozs. grated cheese, one egg. Wash rice and put on with cold water to barely cover, and pinch salt. When that is absorbed, add milk enough to swell and cook the rice thoroughly without making it sloppy. Remove from the fire and stir in the cheese, seasoning of salt, pepper, or made mustard, pinch cayenne, and the egg beaten up. Turn into buttered baking dish and bake gently till set and of a pale brown—cheese dishes must never be done in too hasty an oven, as they acquire an unpleasant flavour if in the least burnt. Turn out on hot ashet, and serve garnished with slices of hard-boiled egg or fried tomatoes.
Cheese and Semolina.
Four ozs. cheese, breakfast cup milk, 1 oz. semolina, 2 eggs. Bring milk to boil and stir in semolina. Cook till it thickens; remove from fire and stir in the cheese, pinch cayenne, and yolks of eggs beaten up, beat up whites stiffly, and mix in lightly. Turn into buttered pudding-dish and bake gently till ready—about half-an-hour. This mixture, and the previous one, may also be steamed for about 40 minutes. Serve with fried tomatoes or tomato sauce.
I may say here that tomatoes go very well with cheese in almost any form. A nice variety of rice and cheese can be contrived as follows:—Put half of the cooked rice in pudding dish, put breakfastcupful tomatoes in saucepan with a little butter, the cheese and seasoning, and just stir over the fire till quite mixed. Put half over the rice, then the rest of the rice, and the other half of the tomato mixture. Coat thickly with crumbs, put some butter on top, and bake.
Cheese Souffle.
Two tablespoonfuls grated cheese, 2 eggs, 1-1/2 gills milk. Beat yolks of eggs and mix in cheese, milk, pepper, salt, pinch cayenne, and, lastly, the whites beaten quite stiff. Make souffle tin very hot, pour in mixture, and bake in quick oven till set—15 to 20 minutes. Serve very hot.
Scotch Woodcock.
This is a favourite savoury in many non-vegetarian households. There are numerous different recipes, which will doubtless be well known, but the following is quite new and original. Prepare some slices of buttered toast or fried bread, take about 1 lb. fresh tomatoes or a large cupful tinned ones drained from the liquor, put in saucepan with a little butter and grated onion, and stew gently till the tomatoes are pulped. If at all stringy, put through a sieve. Add 2 ozs. grated cheese, seasoning to taste, and stir over gentle heat till quite thick. Spread a layer of this mixture on each slice of toast and pile on the top of each other. Reserve a little of the mixture and to it add some tomato juice or milk, mushroom ketchup, or diluted extract. Make very hot and pour right over, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs—or these might have the whites chopped up and the yolks grated over the top. Serve very hot. A very tasteful effect is made by having the slices of toast, which may be round, oblong, &c., graduating pyramid-wise from a large one at the bottom to a small one at the top.
Cheese Straws (1).
Rub 2 ozs. butter into 4 ozs. flour. Add 2 ozs. grated cheese, a little mustard and cayenne, and make into a stiff paste, with the yolks of 2 eggs or one whole egg beaten up. Roll out thin, cut into straws, lift on to baking sheet carefully with a knife, placing them a little apart, and bake a pale brown—about 10 minutes in moderate oven. Another way is to break off small bits of the paste and roll into thin pipes on a floured board. Savoury
Cheese Biscuits
are made by cutting above paste, rolled very thin, into oblong or diamond shapes, with pastry cutter. Bake in same way. Serve either hot or cold. Spread with a little Marmite and savoury tomato mixture, or sandwich this between two biscuits.
Cheese Straws (2).
Two ozs. cheese, same of batter, flour and fine white crumbs. Add seasoning, and make into paste with one egg, roll out, stamp out a few rings, make the rest into straws, bake and put a bundle of straws into each ring.
Parmesan Puff Pie.
Prepare some cheese pastry, as for "Straws No. 1," and with it line a round shallow tin or tart ring. Common short or puff pastry will do, but the cheese pastry is nicer. Fill in with rice or crusts to keep in place. Bake rather briskly, and remove from the tin. Fill in with the following mixture:—In a saucepan melt 1 oz. butter, and into that stir 1 oz. flour and 1 oz. flaked or ground rice. Add gradually a teacupful milk, and when it thickens, 2 ozs. grated cheese and seasoning, cayenne, and made mustard. Pour into pastry case. Sprinkle a few browned crumbs or shredded wheat biscuit crumbs on the top. Dot over with bits of butter, and bake in moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Put a little more grated cheese on the top and serve very hot.
Small Cheese Tartlets
can be made by dividing same ingredients into a number of small cases or patty tins. Ten minutes should be long enough to bake. Another very good filling for these or the previous puff pie is the mixture given in recipe for Scotch woodcock, while a novel and delicious
Welsh Rarebit
could be made with either of these mixtures, with perhaps a rather more liberal supply of cheese and made mustard spread between slices of hot buttered toast.
Mock Crab
is made with somewhat similar filling, but is best with fresh tomatoes. Remove skin and seeds from 1/2 lb. firm, ripe tomatoes, and cut small; grate 4 ozs. rich, well-flavoured Cheddar cheese. Add to tomatoes in basin with teaspoonful made mustard, yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, large spoonful mushroom ketchup, a little extract, and a very little curry powder or paste. Pound all together with back of a wooden spoon till quite smooth. Serve in scallop shells, garnished with the white of egg.
These cheese tartlets, mock crab, patties, &c., can be most acceptably varied by using
Shredded Wheat Biscuits
in place of pastry cases or scallop shells. Use any of the cheese mixtures given for Scotch woodcock, mock crab, &c. With a sharp-pointed knife split the biscuit open and place in buttered tin, with a bit of butter on the top of each, in hot oven till crisp and brown. Remove to hot dish, fill in each biscuit with the mixture made very hot, and pile up more on the top.
Dresden Patties.
Stamp out 6 or 8 rounds of bread, dip quickly in milk, gravy, or diluted extract, and drain—on no account allow to soak. Brush over with egg, toss in fine crumbs and fry. Drain and keep very hot. Prepare a cheese and tomato mixture same as for "Scotch Woodcock," and while in saucepan add 1 or 2 hard-boiled eggs—the white chopped in small dice or tiny strips. Mix lightly over the fire and pile up on centre of each round. Serve on hot napkin, garnished with fried parsley. These patties may also be made with shredded wheat biscuits.
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Scotch Haggis.
"Fair fa' yer honest, sonsy face, Great chieftain o' the puddin' race."
It is to be hoped the shade of Burns will forbear to haunt those who have the temerity to appropriate the sacred name of Haggis for anything innocent of the time-honoured liver and lights which were the sine qua non of the great chieftain. But in Burns' time people were not haunted by the horrors of trichinae, measly affections, &c., &c. (one must not be too brutally plain spoken, even in what they are avoiding), as we are now, so perhaps this practical age may risk the shade rather than the substance.
For a medium-sized haggis, then, toast a breakfastcupful oatmeal in front of the fire, or in the oven till brown and crisp, but not burnt. Have the same quantity of cooked brown or German lentils, and a half-teacupful onions, chopped up and browned in a little butter. Mix all together and add 4 ozs. chopped vegetable suet, and seasoning necessary of ketchup, black and Jamaica popper.
It should be fairly moist; if too dry add a little stock, gravy, or extract. Turn into greased basin and steam at least 3 hours. An almost too realistic imitation of "liver" is contrived by substituting chopped mushrooms for the lentils. It may also be varied by using crushed shredded wheat biscuit crumbs in place of the oatmeal. Any "remains" will be found very toothsome, if sliced when cold, and toasted or fried.
Rolled Oats Savoury.
Put a teacupful Scotch rolled oats in a basin, and pour over 2 cupfuls milk in which some onion has been boiled. Allow to soak for an hour, remove onion, add pinch salt, &c., and a beaten egg. Steam in small greased basin for an hour. May be served with a puree of tomatoes.
Irish Stew.
Pare and slice 2 lbs. potatoes, and about 1/2 lb. each carrots, turnips, and onions. Fry all, except the potatoes, a nice brown in a little butter or fat. Put in layers in saucepan with 2 ozs. fat, salt, pepper, and good stock to barely cover. Simmer very gently for about 2 hours. It may also be baked in pie-dish.
This may be varied in many ways, as by adding layers of forcemeat, pressed lentils, &c. Then there are the various nut meats—Meatose, Vejola, Savoury Nut Meat, &c.—which can be used to great advantage in such a stew.
Scotch Stew.
This is a most substantial and excellent dish. Wash well 1/4 lb. pot barley—the unpearled if it can be procured—simmer gently in 1 pint white stock for an hour, then add some carrots, scraped—and if large, sliced lengthwise—2 or 3 small turnips cut in halves or quarters, or part of a large one in slices, a Spanish onion sliced, or a few shallots, some green peas, French beans, or other vegetables that may be in season; some cauliflower in sprigs is a welcome addition. It or green peas should not be added till 1/2 hour before serving. Simmer till all the vegetables are just cooked, adding more stock if necessary. Serve with a border of boiled pasties, potato balls, or chips.
Poor Man's Pie.
Pare and slice 2 to 3 lbs. potatoes. Slice 1 lb. onions; put half the potatoes in pie-dish, then the onions, and sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls tapioca and a little powdered herbs or parsley. Add the rest of the potatoes, dust with pepper and salt, pour in water or stock to within 1/2 inch from top. Put 2 oz. butter or nut butter on the top, and bake in moderate oven about 2 hours.
Vegetable Roast Duck.
Take a good-sized vegetable marrow, pare thinly and remove a small wedge-shaped piece from the side. Scoop out the seeds and water, fill in with good forcemeat, replace the wedge, brush all over with beaten egg. Coat with crumbs, put some butter over, and bake till a nice brown, basting frequently. Serve with fried tomatoes.
An ordinary forcemeat of crumbs, onion, parsley, egg, &c., will do, or any of the sausage mixtures given previously.
Esau's Pottage.
The following I have had given me as the original recipe for "Esau's pottage," but I think it must be more elaborate than that set before the hungry hunter.
One pint lentils and 2 quarts water boiled 2-1/2 hours, then add 1/2 lb. onions, 2 lbs. tomatoes, a little thyme and parsley. Cook all together 3/4 hour longer and add 3 oz. butter and 1 oz. grated cheese just before serving.
Dahl.
Wash well 1/2 lb. rice and allow to swell and soften in just as much water or stock as it will absorb. Cook 1/2 lb. red lentils with stock or water, some grated onion, pinch herbs, little curry powder, and any other seasoning to taste. Make a border of the rice, pile the lentils high in the centre, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. The lentils are best steamed, as they can thus be thoroughly cooked without becoming mushy or burnt.
Mushroom and Tomato Pie.
For a fair-sized pie get 3/4 lb. medium-sized flap mushrooms, the meadow ones are best, and 1 lb. good firm tomatoes, remove the stalks from the mushrooms and wipe with a piece of clean flannel dipped in oatmeal or salt. Unless very dirty, it is best not to wash them, as that somewhat spoils the flavour. Pare and put a layer in pie-dish, along with slices of tomato, pared and free from seeds. Put a little bit of butter on each, dust with salt and pepper, and repeat till the dish is heaped up. Cover with a good, rough puff paste, and bake till the paste is ready, about an hour. No water should be put in, but the trimmings of the mushrooms and tomatoes should be stewed in a little water, and this gravy may be added with a funnel after the pie is ready.
Mushroom and Tomato Patties.
For these we require some richer puff paste. Prepare and trim a small quantity of tomatoes and mushrooms. Cut rather small and cook gently, with a little butter and seasoning, for 10 or 15 minutes. Allow most of the moisture to evaporate in cooking, as this is much better than mixing in flour to absorb it. When the pastry cases are baked, fill in with the mixture. Good either hot or cold. If baked in patty pans, the mixture should be cold before using. Line in the tins with puff paste, half fill, brush edges with egg or water, lay on another round of paste, press edges together and bake.
Vol-au-Vent.
A delicious vol-au-vent is made with exactly the same filling as above.
Mushroom Pie.
Put on stewpan with a piece of "Nutter" or other good vegetable fat. Cut up one large Spanish onion very small, add to fat and brown nicely. Cover with water and stew along with the contents of a tin or bottle of white French mushrooms (including the liquid), also pepper and salt to taste. Stew till the mushrooms are tender, then take out and chop. Dish along with other contents of saucepan, and when cool add a cup of brown bread crumbs, and one beaten egg. Cover with puff paste or short crust and bake. Serve with brown sauce.
Shepherd's Pie.
Mushrooms same as for mushroom pie, but covered with nicely mashed potatoes, adding pepper and salt to the latter. Beat well and cover, stroke with a fork, and brown in the oven.
BREAKFAST DISHES—Porridge.
"The halesome parritch, chief o' Scotia's food."
In these days of tea and white bread it is to be feared that the "halesome parritch" is now very far removed from the honoured place of chief, and it must be more than a coincidence which connects the physical degeneracy of the Scottish working people with the supplanting of the porridge-pot by the tea-pot. Even in rural districts there is a great change in the daily fare, and there too anaemia, dyspepsia, and a host of other ills, quite unknown to older generations, are only too common. Certainly many people have given up porridge because they found it did not suit them—too heavy, heating, &c.—but we must remember that all compounds of oatmeal and water are not porridge, and the fault may lie in its preparation. It is a pity that any one, especially children and growing youths, should be deprived of such valuable nutriment as that supplied by oatmeal, and before giving it up, it should be tried steamed and super-cooked. It is only by steaming that one can have the oatmeal thoroughly cooked and dextrinised, while of a good firm "chewable" consistency, and not only are sloppy foods indigestible, but they give a feeling of satiety in eating, followed later by that of emptiness and craving for food. The custom, too, of taking tea and other foods after porridge is generally harmful.
Now for the method by which many, who have long foresworn porridge, have become able again to relish it, and benefit by it. Make porridge in usual way, that is, have fast boiling water, and into that sprinkle the oatmeal smoothly, putting about twice as much oatmeal in proportion to the water as is usual. Boil up for a few minutes, add salt to taste, and turn into a pudding bowl or steamer. Cover closely and put in large pot with about one inch water or in a steam cooker and steam for five to twelve hours. Eat with stewed prunes, figs, &c., or with butter or nut butter—almond cream butter is both delicious and wholesome. A mixture of wheatmeal and oatmeal, or wheatmeal itself, may be found to suit some better than oatmeal alone. I heard recently of a hopeless dyspeptic who recovered health on a diet composed almost entirely of porridge made of three-parts whole wheatmeal to one of oatmeal. I may add that one must be careful to take a much smaller quantity of this firm, super-cooked porridge, as it contains so much more nutriment in proportion to its bulk.
Porridge made with Scotch Rolled Oats also will be found easier of digestion by some than ordinary oatmeal porridge. This also is best steamed and super-cooked.
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Most of the rissoles, toasts, &c., given in the earlier part of the book are suited for breakfast dishes, but we may add a few more.
Savoury Omelets.
Separate the whites from the yolks of 3 eggs, or one for each person; beat up the yolks, and add some grated onion, pepper and salt. Beat the whites till very stiff and mix or rather fold in very lightly. Make a small piece of butter very hot in small frying pan, pour in one-third of the mixture, shake over gentle heat till set, easing it round the edges with a knife, fold over and put on very hot napkin. Repeat till all are done and serve very hot. A little hot lemon juice may be squeezed over, or a spoonful of mushroom ketchup will give a nice relish.
Cheese Omelet
is made by mixing in grated cheese—a dessert spoonful for each egg. The onion may be omitted if preferred without. A pinch cayenne and a little made mustard go well with cheese.
Savoury Pancakes.
Take much the same ingredients as above, but beat yolks and whites together, and add one tablespoonful milk, and a level dessert spoonful flour for each egg. Mix all together some time before using. Make a bit of butter hot in very small frying pan, pour in enough batter to just cover, and cook very gently till set, and brown on the under side. Turn and brown on the other side, or hold in front of hot fire or under the gas grill. Roll up and serve very hot. Ketchup and water, or diluted extract, may be used instead of the milk, and some finely minced parsley or pinch herbs is an improvement.
These omelets and pancakes may be varied by adding tomatoes, mushrooms, &c. Cook very lightly and either stir into the mixture before frying, or spread on the top after it is cooked, and fold or roll up. A mixture of tomatoes and mushrooms is especially good.
Mushroom Cutlets.
Remove stalks and skins from 1/2 lb. flap mushrooms. Clean, chop up, and stew gently in a little butter. Melt 1 oz. butter in another saucepan, stir in 1 oz. flour, and add by degrees a teacupful milk, tomato juice, or extract. When smooth add the mushrooms and seasonings. Stir till smooth and thick, and turn out on flat dish to cool. Shape into cutlets, egg, crumb, and fry.
Asparagus, celery, artichokes, and many other vegetables may be used in the composition of omelets, fritters, cutlets, &c.
If for an omelet, only a very small quantity must be used. One tablespoonful of any of the finer cooked vegetables is enough in proportion to two eggs. When a more substantial dish is wanted, it should take the shape of cutlets or fritters.
Bread Fritters.
Put 6 ozs. fine bread crumbs in a basin and pour over 3 teacupfuls boiling milk. Allow to stand for some time, then add seasoning to taste—grated onion, parsley, ketchup, extract, &c.—and 2 beaten eggs, reserving a little of the white for brushing. Mix and pour into buttered baking tin. Cover and bake in good oven till set—about 1 hour. When cold, cut into nice shapes, brush over with egg, toss in fine crumbs and fry. This may also be served simply baked. In that case, put some bits of butter on top, and bake a nice brown without cover.
Eggs
are, of course, invaluable in many ways besides the more familiar boiled, poached, and scrambled.
Buttered Eggs.
Break number of eggs required in a bowl, melt a nut of butter to each egg in saucepan, pour in the eggs, seasoning, &c., and stir one way over gentle heat till set. About 2 minutes should do. Serve on toast or bread cutlets.
Tomato Eggs.
Have a quantity of tomato pulp made hot in frying pan, and slip in as many eggs as required, gently, so as not to scatter. Allow to poach for about 3 minutes or till the whites are just set. Serve on toast or shredded wheat biscuits. Another way is to cook the tomatoes, and put, with the eggs, on a flat dish, in the oven till set. Serve on same dish, garnished with sippets of toast or toasted triscuits.
Egg Cutlets (Mrs G. D.)
There are many different recipes for these, but the following is an especially good one, for which I am indebted to an Edinburgh friend. Chop very small two firmly boiled eggs, and 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs and the same of grated cheese with a pinch of curry powder, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Mix with the yolk of a raw egg. Shape into cutlets, brush over with the white of the egg beaten up a little, toss in fine crumbs, and fry a nice brown. Garnish with fried parsley.
Inverness Eggs.
Boil hard the number of eggs required, remove the shells, and rub each with a little flour. Take a quantity of any of the varieties of sausage meat, for which recipes are given, or a forcemeat, or quenelle mixture will do, add some finely minced parsley, any other seasoning required, and a beaten egg to bind. Mix thoroughly, flour the hands and coat each egg with the mixture, rather less than 1/4 inch thick, and evenly, so that the shape is retained, flour lightly and fry a nice brown. Cut in halves, and serve, round ends up, with tomato sauce.
Toasts
of various kinds come in nicely for breakfast. They can be of ordinary toast, fried bread, or shredded wheat biscuits. The latter are particularly dainty, and may be prepared thus:—Put in buttered baking tin, with plenty of butter on top of each, and place in brisk oven till crisp and brown—about 10 minutes. Pile high with following mixture:—In an enamel frying pan put a teaspoonful butter, and two tablespoonfuls diluted extract or ketchup and water for each egg. When nearly boiling, break in the eggs and stir gently round over a very moderate heat till just set. Season to taste. A little of the sauce made hot might be first poured over the toast or biscuits.
Bread Cutlets.
Have a number of neat pieces of bread about 1/2 inch thick. Dip in milk, gravy, tomato juice, &c., and drain. Do not soak. Brush over with egg or dip in batter, and fry. Serve as they are or with some savoury mince, tomatoes, &c.
Stuffed Tomatoes.
Have number of tomatoes required, equal in size but not too large. With a sharp knife take off a small slice from the stalk end. Scoop out a little of the centre part, mix this with some forcemeat, or sausage mixture, beaten egg, &c., and fill in the cavity. Put some butter on the top and bake. A few chopped mushrooms with crumbs, egg, &c., make a delicious filling.
Cheese Fritters.
Mix 2 tablespoonfuls flour with 1/2 teacupful milk, 2 ozs. grated cheese, teaspoonful made mustard, and the whites of 2 eggs stiffly beaten. Mix well, and drop by small spoonfuls into hot fat. Fry a nice brown and serve very hot.
One might go on indefinitely to detail breakfast dishes, but that is quite unnecessary. It is a good thing, however, to have some simple, easily-prepared food as a regular stand-by from day to day, just as porridge is in some households, and bacon and eggs in others. Variety is very good so far, but we are in danger of making a fetish of changes and variations. Most of you know the story of the Scotch rustic who was quizzed by an English tourist, who surprised him at his mid-day meal of brose. The tourist asked him what he had for breakfast and supper respectively, and on getting each time the laconic answer "brose," he burst out in amaze: "And do you never tire of brose!" Whereupon the still more astonished rustic rejoined "Wha wad tire o' their meat!" "Meat" to this happy youth was summed up in brose, and to go without was to go unfed.
Well, I am afraid the most Spartan hausfrau among us will scarcely attain to such an ideal of simplicity, but we might do well to have one staple dish, either in plane of, or along with porridge. For this purpose I know of nothing better than
Shredded Wheat Biscuits.
These have been referred to several times already in various savoury recipes, and, indeed, the ways in which they may be used are practically unlimited. For a
Standard Breakfast Dish,
especially in these days of "domestic" difficulty, they are exceedingly useful. For some years now we have bought them through our grocer by the case of 50 boxes—which, of course, brings them in much cheaper than buying these boxes singly—and use them week in, week out, for the family breakfast. Most people are familiar with the appearance of these, but any who have not yet sampled them should lose no time in doing so. Fortunately, they can now be had of all good grocers. When some of us began to use them first we had no end of bother sending away for them to special depots.
To prepare:—Have a flat tin or ashet large enough to hold the biscuits side by side. Spread the tin liberally with butter, lay in the biscuits, put more butter on the top of each, and toast till nicely crisp and brown in good oven, or under the gas grill. If the latter, turn to toast the under side. Be very careful not to burn. If toasted on an ashet serve on same dish. One can now have fire-proof ware which is not unsightly. There is a very artistic white fire-proof ware which is specially suitable for using in this way, so that besides the saving of trouble, one can have the food hot and crisp from the oven—a rather difficult, or at least uncertain consummation if there is much shifting from one dish to another. These