Memoir and Diary of John Yeardley, Minister of the Gospel · Chapter 17Part 17
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11th,--This morning we had a visit from Dapaldas, Greek professor of theology in the university. He is a pleasing and enlightened man, and speaks French well, which gave us the opportunity of conversing with him pretty freely. I feel to love him much. He is one of the laborers in translating the Old Testament.
13th.--To-day we have received letters from England. Many of our beloved friends have been called from this state of being to another world. How much my heart feels humbled; how unworthy I am of the least of the mercies daily received at the hand of a bountiful Creator. Since we have been here I have been favored with a strong conviction that we are here in the ordering of Divine Providence. What may in time open before us in the way of gospel labor I know not. It requires time, caution, and much perseverance, to find a way to the hearts and best feelings of the Greeks. I greatly desire that we may be found in humble watchfulness and prayer; and that, if found worthy to be the feeble instruments of declaring the way of salvation to the natives of these islands, we may embrace every opportunity to preach repentance towards God and faith in our Lord Jesus Christ, for this is the great object for which we have left our native land and all that is dear to us in this world.
26th.--Argyri left us and is gone to Syra. She was very sorrowful, and the parting to us all was painful. Although reserved and timid, she has become extremely attached to us, and we trust the three months we have passed together will not soon be forgotten. Her company has often been sweet and cheering, and in our little meetings for worship her heart has not unfrequently been tendered with religious feeling. She is desirous of being useful in schools, and of making a stand against the many superstitions which prevail, influencing others by her example, and through the aid of divine grace leading them to that vital religion in which she was instructed at Locle, and which is now a strength and comfort to her own mind.
1834. 1 mo. 6.--To-day we received a visit from the young Count Francois Sardina. We had much conversation with him on the subject of the intercession of saints. He could not admit that they practiced the adoration of saints, they only meant to hold them up as examples of piety and virtue, and to induce others to follow them. We pointed out to him the importance of taking Him for our example who spake as never man spake, and has left us an example that we should follow his steps. This young man is very inquisitive and inclined to be sceptical, but under all has serious impressions. Many of the Greeks who are not entirely built up in their superstitions are inclined to doubt respecting the truths of Christianity. We were glad to put into his hand J. J. Gurney's Evidences.
23rd.--This evening we had another long visit from the Count. We entered very fully into Church discipline, and left few points of faith and doctrine untouched, either in his Church or ours. I do not remember ever to have been more closely questioned; but I think this young person sincere in his inquiries. I believe it is a precious time of visitation to his soul; he is very amiable and affectionate, and acknowledges the evils and vanity of the world.
27th.--This evening we have had a long conversation with Pathanes, our teacher in the language, and a deacon in the Greek Church. He is much attached to the rites of his own Church, but acknowledges the necessity of regeneration. They have a fatal error in the ceremony of baptism, positively asserting that when the child (or individual) has received this, he is really born again, and a fit heir of salvation. Such is the efficacy which they attach to this ceremony, that their creed sets forth, in the most unqualified manner, that whoever receives not the form cannot enter the kingdom. We could not forbear lifting up our testimony against the injurious effects of such a creed.
28th.--We have had a ride to-day with I. Lowndes and family across the island, sixteen miles, to the sea on the other side. Our road led us through a perfect wood of olive-trees, thickly planted and loaded with fruit. The hills are often variegated with the cypress, &c., and near to the sea are beautifully romantic. We dined at the fortress of Paleocastazza, on the top of a high hill, on provisions we took with us,--the air good, and the prospect delightful. This place was formerly a convent; the church still remains in use, and we visited two of the old Greek priests. One of them is ninety-five years old; he was lying on a dirty hard couch in a miserable apartment; the other performs the liturgy. I. L. gave him the book of Genesis, which he could read but very indifferently. He was besides extremely cross, full of complaints of the soldiers who were stationed there. What a proof that to those who are in the gall of bitterness there is no peace, even in such a remote place.
2 mo. 1.--Another long and pleasant visit from Count Sardina. He is mild and condescending, but close in argument His mind appears gradually to become impressed with the truths of the gospel; and I trust the notions he has received from sceptical writers are giving way to a hope of salvation through Christ Jesus our Lord. Fearful of doing anything to make the members of his own Church his enemies, he comes to us by night,--not for fear of the Jews, but for fear of the Greeks.
9th.--How often our hearts are ready to sink within us in the midst of this dark and superstitious people. We have now been here nearly three months, and have not had one opportunity of publicly preaching the gospel. The power of prejudice in favor of their own superstitious rites, and the overwhelming influence of moral evil, seem entirely to close our way in this line. We have had much conversation with our friend, Isaac Lowndes, who has resided on this island thirteen years, on the subject of publicly preaching the gospel to the people; and he says that such is their attachment to the ceremonies of their own church that they cannot be prevailed upon to attend the ministry of any other denomination. I. Lowndes is a character with whom we feel much Christian unity, and his family is like a little lamp shining in the midst of gross darkness.
This darkness, adds Martha Yeardley, is increased by the dissipation of the greater part of the English. The military have great influence here, and their practices tend greatly to demoralize the unhappy people. We have just heard that they have obtained leave of the Senate to hold a ball in the new school-rooms, and to break down the partition-wall between them for this purpose, which will prevent the school from being opened for another month.
On the 23rd John Yeardley continues:--
To-day my drooping spirit has been refreshed by six precious letters from England, expressing the interest of our dear friends in our mission; but oh, how my heart is humbled in the sense of how little we do. During our stay here I have been closely engaged in translating Judson's Questions on Scripture. The correction is nearly finished, and we propose having a number printed for the school.
Ignorance of the language was a perpetual hindrance in their way. Although they devoted a very large portion of time to acquiring it, the difficulty was almost insurmountable. They learned to read and translate; but to converse in Greek was for a long time almost entirely beyond their power.
Although to preach and teach the gospel was the primary object of John and Martha Yeardley's errand, the temporal improvement of their fellow-men was by no means foreign to their mission; and we have often seen that plans for the promotion of industry and self-support were to the former objects of peculiar interest. During their residence at Corfu no small portion of his time was occupied with the establishment of a model farm, which seems to have been a joint scheme on his part and that of the administration. A grant of land was obtained from the Senate, and the prisoners, with some of the poor, were set to work to cultivate it. Some of the landowners watched the progress of the experiment, with the intention, if it should be successful, of introducing the plan upon their estates.
We may conclude this account of their residence in Corfu with some general remarks on the religious character and condition of the inhabitants.
We trust, say they, our sojourn in Corfu may not have been in vain: if we may only be permitted to prepare the way for the further enlargement of the Saviour's kingdom on the earth, we may well be content. Preparing the way it may truly be called, for there is a great deal to be done among a people just emerging from barbarism, and bringing with them all the fixed habits of ignorance and superstition, before a door can be opened for the direct preaching of the gospel. Their mode of reasoning is strong and wily, and they ask questions which can only be answered in private conversation and by Scripture proof. A great means of affording help must be by educating the rising generation and by the diffusion of Scriptural knowledge. Many of the priest are extremely ignorant, and some of them have only learned by rote the service of their own church in the ancient Greek; their knowledge, therefore, cannot be founded on their own search for Scriptural truth, seeing they have not had the opportunity of examining for themselves. In some instances when we have presented to them the New Testament in the modern language, they have said, with a look of anxious gratitude, This is what we want; we priests teach in the churches what we do not ourselves understand.
On the 26th of the Second Month they crossed the sea to Santa Maura, having a delightful passage of eight hours. Captain McPhail, the governor, a friend of William Allen's, met them himself with a boat, and conducted them to his house. He showed them every attention during their short sojourn, and introduced them to those persons whom they desired to see. They made an interesting call on the bishop;--
A nice old man, who was many years priest in a village in the mountains, and, what is a wonder, he has been promoted on account of his virtuous life. He was a good example in his own village, and a great promoter of schools. The old man is candid enough to confess that he was happier among his rustic peasants than he is now in more refined society. "We gave him the book of Genesis in Modern Greek; and it was highly gratifying to us to see the surprise and pleasure of his countenance on being presented with an account of the Creation and works of the Almighty in his native tongue. We thought the opportunity favorable for proposing the Scriptures to be read by the clergy in the modern instead of the ancient language. He made no objection, and appeared to see the great utility which might arise from it."
Something has been said about the semi-barbarism of the Greeks. What our friends learned respecting crime and violence, whilst in this island, places the manners of the people in a very strong light.
Nothing can show more strongly the demoralized state of these islands than the frightful acts of cruelty done to the cattle out of pure revenge. One shudders to think of the skinning of beasts alive, cutting off the ears of asses, breaking the legs of horses; yet of these sorts of cruelty not less than 500 acts have been committed in the last four years, and the offenders have escaped being brought to conviction!
This dark picture is happily relieved by some traits of moral beauty. The narrative of a ride into the mountains of Santa Maura, which J.Y. made under the escort of the governor, proves to how great a degree virtuous and gentle manners grew and flourished in the remoter parts of this island.
3 mo. 1.--This morning we set out for a ride about nine miles up the mountains to a village called Carià, which contains about 1200 inhabitants, and in the surrounding hamlets there are about the same number.
About half-past 9 o'clock we started; Captain McPhail and myself on his two sure-footed horses, and another English gentleman on a fine mule. After we had left the newly-made road, we pursued a track perfectly unequalled in any part where I have travelled; rugged precipices, shelving rocks, and large loose stones, which assailed the feet of the poor beasts every step they took. However, for my part, I was well rewarded; it gave me an opportunity not only of seeing the interior of the island, but also a specimen of the disposition of the natives. Before we reached the village, I observed, with some surprise, a tribe of people assembled on the top of the cliffs to see us come in, and on ascending a few more paces of rock, we found the children of the boys' school arranged like a little army, with myrtle branches in their hands to welcome us to their sequestered hamlet. After greeting us with great respect, they followed us to the country-house of our English friend.
The mountain multitude waited with patience until we had made our repast, when a few of the leading villagers were introduced to our room. And what was their request? A school for their daughters. They were asked what they would give towards its support. They answered, Whatever we can afford; we that are able will pay for the poor, and they shall go free. It was then intimated to them, that their friends would assist them in establishing a school; but that they themselves must join in the effort, and that it would be well to consult together, and put down their names and the number of children they would send. Here the town-crier came forward, and said he had for the last twenty years cried everything the government wished to be made known in the town, free of cost, and he would now go round and cry for the benefit of the school. Next came forward the father of the young woman proposed for the mistress, who it was proposed should be further instructed in the village, and then sent to the town to learn the system. We asked them if they were sensible of the advantages of a school for girls, of having them brought up to be good wives, capable of managing their households, and able to read the precious things in the New Testament. One of them replied, Without instruction what are we?--we are like the beasts. One peasant had been so anxious for his daughter to learn to read, that he had made interest to send her to the boys' school. When we asked why he did so, he said, Because I had no other means, and I wished to have her read the New Testament to us; now I have the advantage of hearing that precious book read to me by my own daughter. It was delightful to witness a feeling like this in a people so uncultivated; surely the friends of education in Greece have encouragement to go on and prosper.
After this pleasing interview we proceeded to the boys' school, followed by as many as could get into the room. When the boys had read, I desired that questions might be put to them on what they had been reading, but soon found that this important mode of instruction was neglected; the master promised to introduce the questions which we are having printed, if we would send him the books. On returning to our quarters, we found among the crowd who were still present, the three priests, come, I suppose, to pay their respects to the governor. We were glad of an opportunity of conversing with them. On asking their opinion as to a school, one of them said, in Greek, It is good, blessed and honorable. I could not let this favorable opportunity pass without impressing on them, through McPhail, the advantage of reading the Scriptures to the people in the modern tongue which they could understand, telling them that the book of Genesis was already printed in Modern Greek. They could hardly believe me, and on my showing them a new copy of this and of the Psalms, their eyes sparkled with pleasure. Our friend the governor read aloud a portion of Genesis, and one of the priests a little out of the Psalms. The long-robed, patriarchal looking man said, Ah, this is what we want! We priests read in the churches what we don't understand ourselves, and how can we explain it to others. They modestly asked if they might have the books for a while; and when we said they were given to them, there was a little jealousy who should have them; this we removed by saying that more should be sent. Many of the kind-hearted people accompanied us to the precipice, and ran before to clear the way; and, through divine mercy, we reached the dwelling of our kind host in safety; not without a steeping of mountain rain.
When the good Bishop of Santa Maura heard the result of our interview with the peasants, he sent one of his most influential priests with a subscription book for his people to put down their names towards a fund for the schools, thus promptly giving his sanction to general education.
3 mo. 2.--First-day. After breakfast we read a chapter and held our meeting with Captain McPhail and his wife, and felt a little comfort in holding up the standard of religious worship. Something was given us to utter, both in testimony and supplication.
The next evening we dined with the governor. It was a state dinner, given to the judges and persons of rank in the town; about twenty of us sat down; the repast was splendid and the dishes innumerable. At the head of the table was Captain McPhail in full uniform; on his right our hostess in a rich Greek dress; on his left a young lady in the full Italian style; my M.Y. and myself were not the least singular in appearance. All was done in good order, and a sweet feeling prevailed.
4th.---We are like prisoners at large, not being able to leave the island till the steamer returns. Captain McPhail has kindly proposed our paying a visit to the continent to see a little colony of the natives who live in wigwams. These people like many others suffered greatly from the Turks, and took refuge in Santa Maura, which has excited in them a feeling of gratitude for the protection of their English neighbors.
About 9 o'clock we started in the Captain's boat, a family party, not leaving even the baby at home. We had a pleasant sail of less than an hour, and found seven ponies waiting for us at the landing-place. The ponies were brought into the sea, and we mounted the pack-saddles; some of our company being carried from the boat on men's backs. Thus arranged we set out, one by one, along the narrow goat-paths, accompanied by our retinue, some going before, and some following with the baggage. We winded our way among bushes of myrtle and mastic till we reached the willow-city. It consists of about sixty perfect wigwams of one room each, with no other light but what is admitted by the doorway, four feet high, with here and there a glimpse that makes its way through the wattles.
The people having received notice of our visit had made a general-holiday, and were all assembled, with lively good-humor in their countenances, to greet our arrival. This in the first year that they have been left to enjoy their lands in peace since the destruction by the Turks of their little town, which stood at about half an hour's distance. Some of them possess property in land and cattle, and all live on the produce of their own farms, and produce their own clothing. These simple-hearted people show their good sense by avoiding all lawsuits, so common among the Greeks. They choose one upright old man, with two assistants, to govern them, to whose judgment they submit, and the greatest punishment is to be shut up for two or three days in a solitary room in the convent.
The wigwam where we alighted was soon filled with visitors. We were served with coffee by our hostess,--an interesting woman, with much expression of mildness in her countenance. After conversing awhile with the villagers, and satisfying their curiosity as well as we could, I thought it a suitable time to bring about the primary object of our visit, and inquired who among them could read. A young man came forward who had been educated in the school at Santa Maura; we gave him a New Testament, and he read the greater part of a chapter in the Gospels. Those who were in the room listened with surprise and attention, and many without looked eagerly in at the doorway to hear what was going on. This was probably the first time they had heard the gospel in their own language. We gave them a few copies of the New Testament and some tracts, for which they hardly knew how to express their gratitude; and we requested the reader to continue the practice he had commenced.
When this scene of interest was over we took a turn round the other huts. They are situated on the side of the hill, among myrtles, and command a delightful view of the valley. We passed by the common oven, and on looking in saw our dinner preparing. The table was spread in the hospitable wigwam which we first entered, a clean white tablecloth and napkins on a large board, with cushions around on boxes for chairs. The repast consisted of a whole lamb, well roasted, and two sorts of Yorkshire-pudding, one of which was particularly good.
This patriarchal repast being finished, we again went forth, and visited the convent of Plijâ, distant from the wigwams about ten minutes' walk. Many of our new friends accompanied us, the judge with great solidity of manner leading the way. We passed a beautiful fountain at the head of the glen, and entered the monastic edifice, which is built of stone. The abbot, a fine old man, met us at the door with a pleasant countenance. He invited us into his cell; we had to stoop very low to save our heads, and the door-case was rubbed bright on all sides by the friction of this solitary inmate passing in and out. The hermitage consists of one room with a bed in the corner, screened by a slight partition; a lattice-window admitted a peep into the rich and lovely vale below, and the pure air of the mountain was not obstructed by glass. I had often heard of the Eastern custom of sitting cross-legged, but never till now experienced it in reality. We were desired to sit on cushions spread on the floor for our reception, and were served with the finest walnuts and honey I ever tasted; and while we partook of this hermit-like repast, there was a precious feeling of good, and I believe we had the secret prayers of the good abbot, as he had ours. When we presented him with the New Testament, Genesis, and the Psalms, he kissed the books and pressed them to his bosom, expressing his gratitude for the treasure.
Our next visit was to the habitation of the judge, which is of the same description as the rest, where we were served again with coffee. What pleased us was the sweet feeling of quiet which prevailed, of which I think some of them were sensible; one woman, our first hostess, put her hand to her heart and said very sweetly, "I love you."
They would not let us depart without showing us their ancient custom of taking hold of hands and dancing round, singing meanwhile a sort of chant. Many of them came with us to the water's edge, and prayers were raised in our hearts for their good, and thanksgiving to our Divine Master for the comfort and satisfaction of the day.
3 mo 8.--Under the hospitable roof of Captain McPhail we have felt much at home. His wife said our coming had been a blessing to her; she is near to us in gospel love. The captain accompanied us in his boat to the steamer.
From Santa Maura they proceeded to Argostoli, the chief town of Cephalonia.
We arrived about five o'clock in the morning. The entrance to the town for a considerable distance is like a perfect lake: the white houses along the side of the harbor, and the craggy hill with the olives growing out of the rocks, had a pretty appearance at the break of day. Our young Greek interpreter, Giovanni Basilik, was with us. We had to call up the inhabitants of the only inn in the place before we could get shelter. At first the host refused to receive our little company, but after some explanation he consented to arrange the desolate-looking rooms into habitable order.
They visited the schools and the prison, and they received from the Resident, H.G. Tennyson, and the schoolmaster and mistress, a friendly reception; but the islanders are generally careless of instruction, and progress of all kinds is slow.
From Cephalonia they traversed the sea to the beautiful island of Zante. Though they had ten men to row, the passage occupied thirteen hours.
Contrary wind, writes John Yeardley, compelled us to approach the island slowly, which gave us an opportunity of viewing the villages and scattered houses at the foot of the mountain. The town of Zante is very long; the main street has piazzas on each side for a considerable distance. In many of the windows (I suppose a Turkish custom) there are something like cages, through which the women peep without being seen, under the pretence of modesty; but it is horrid to hear of the wickedness committed in-doors. However, I am glad to find the custom is dying away, and that the young women are now permitted to walk in public more than they were a few years ago. This island is by far the finest we have visited; it is very fertile and well cultivated, and supplies England with currants; but, like their neighbors, the people have the character of being immoral, treacherous, and revengeful. It is sorrowful to think that, under the system of picture-worship, there is scarcely a sin of which the poor Greek is not guilty to an enormous extent. With God all things are possible--he can change the hard heart of man by the power of his Divine Spirit; but, morally speaking, it must be some great convulsion that can work a real change in the nation. W.O. Croggon has labored here more than seven years, and knows not of one conversion among the rich Greeks--not one attends the service for worship. He is the Methodist missionary here, and is called the friend of every man: he has been a real friend to us.
The Governor and his wife have paid us marked attention. The former took us to see the prison, which is well conducted, and the prisoners are classed. We suggested the benefit likely to result from the prisoners being employed, and Major Longley [the Governor] intends to introduce basket-making. We have, in addition to the public schools, visited several private ones, and are pleased to find so many children receiving education: this is really the chief source of hope for improving the morals of the Greeks, and dispersing the gross darkness which surrounds this people, whose long servitude and sufferings under very hard masters have almost driven them back to barbarism.
17th.--There was a shock of earthquake, more violent than has been felt for some years in this place. Our room shook almost like a ship at sea; the walls, beds, tables, and glasses were all in motion, and the sensation, while it lasted, was that of sea-sickness. The noise may be compared to the rolling of a carriage with many horses coming at full speed, and suddenly stopping at the dwelling. (See Eastern Customs, p. 78.)
Having thus explored the four principal islands of the Ionian Archipeligo. John and Martha Yeardley turned their course towards the Morea.
30th.--At 6 o'clock in the morning we put ourselves once more at the mercy of the waves of the Mediterranean, and had a quick passage of fourteen hours. The landing at Patras was frightful; a sudden squall threw us off the shore, and caused us to lose part of the rudder, so that we were obliged to get into a very small boat, which threatened to upset every moment. We were, however, favored to land in safety on a projecting rock: it was nearly dark, and the whole had a terrific appearance.
The plains near Patras, once beautifully planted with currants, olives and vines, are now perfectly desolate. The castle was in possession, of the Turks eight years, who made continual sallies from it for provision and firewood; while, in order to disappoint them, the Greeks themselves assisted in the destruction of all vegetation; so that there is scarcely any green thing to be seen. The old town is a scene of ruins; the site of the new town is near the sea, where temporary shops and houses have been erected.